We missed our train northwest by a few minutes. It was already dark by then and as we were ready to go, the next train headed southeast was just as good as the train we missed.
We rode into Shilin, in the dark without lights on the first night.
The next day we set off for Fuxian lake, using a Baidu map on a phone as a guide. We headed west to Yiliang, then south roughly following the railway and river. We then turned west and uphill and uphill and uphill. We made it to the town on the northern point of Fuxian Lake and on advice from a shop owner who plied us with dried persimmons, we continued another twenty kilometres to Luchong Scenic Area.
A nicer hotel room for slightly more, a local special potato rice and a quiet sleep by the lake.
The next day, a bus back to Kunming in time for work, feeling satisfied with the small cycling adventure.